After arriving in our once-upon-a-time hometown, located in central Ireland, we found a sweet, little downtown area and checked into the only reputable hotel in town, waiting to feel something. Where was the rush of familial memory? Shouldn’t I have a Pavlovian response to the smell of Guiness and black pudding emanating from the bar downstairs? There was nothing. Cozy and friendly, yes, but it didn’t feel like home.

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